Mix 5g of Ancient Sunrise Citric Acid powder per 100g of Ancient Sunrise henna or cassia powder, then stir in distilled water until the paste is the consistency of mashed potatoes. Let the paste rest at room temperature (68-72 degrees Fahrenheit) for 8-12 hours for best dye results. Citric acid henna paste mixtures tend to create bright coppery stains that stay light and bright. Citric acid is more likely to cause some possible sensitivities such as itching or redness of the scalp than the other Ancient Sunrise® fruit acid powders.
Henna and cassia will dye your hair most effectively when mixed with a mildly acidic liquid. If you don't use an acidic liquid or powder in your mix the color will not be as permanent and can fade. The acidic liquid keeps the hydrogen atoms intact on the corners of the quinone molecules so the color (lawsone or crysophanic acid) can bind to the keratin in your hair. If these molecules are bound to your hair, the color will not fade or go peculiar. In fact, the color will gradually deepen and look more natural.
The links below connect to chapters of the free e-book Ancient Sunrise© Henna for Hair,
a book researched and written by Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD, a
researcher who focused her graduate and doctoral work on henna.
Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair
is meant to help people understand how to dye their hair without
chemicals, to protect their own health and the health of the planet they
live on, to correct the misconceptions that have lead to chemical hair
dye industry replacing henna, and to dispel the abundant misinformation
You can download these selected chapters or download the entire book free of charge at http://www.hennaforhair.com/freebooks/
Sunrise® Chapter 6
and Acidic Mixes
about the necessary chemistry of mixing henna and cassia with a
mildly acidic liquid. This chapter discusses several sources of
fruit acids, and how each has a different effect on henna.
and Testing your Henna Mix
Here is information on
the mixing, dye release, formulation, and testing of a wide range of
non-chemical permanent colors from henna, indigo, and cassia. This
chapter includes step-by-step instructions to produce the color you
want for your hair.