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Ancient Sunrise® Henna Instructions
Last Updated: 11/09/2021

Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair Instructions

Please read these instructions fully before beginning. If you have any questions, click here to contact Ancient Sunrise® Customer Service.

Ancient Sunrise® carries three types of henna:

  • Ancient Sunrise® Rajasthani Twilight Henna
    • Highest dye content
    • Best for gray coverage
    • Best for rich auburn and brunette mixes
  • Ancient Sunrise® Rajasthani Monsoon Henna
    • Standard quality henna
    • Rose undertone.
  • Ancient Sunrise® Rarity Henna
    • Finest sift
      • Great for relaxed, natural, and fragile hair types as well as locs.
    • Copper undertones
About 100g of Ancient Sunrise® Henna is needed for every 5 inches of hair. This may vary depending on density and porosity of the hair.

Preparing henna paste:

Mixing and Dye-Releasing Henna (this needs to be done at least 8 hours prior to using the dye).

  1. Mix henna* with either a) fruit juice; or b) an Ancient Sunrise® fruit acid powder and distilled water in any kind of bowl.
  2. Stir until most lumps are gone, and the paste is the consistency of sour cream. A whisk can be extra helpful for mixing.
  3. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature (68-72 degrees F) for 8-12 hours.**
  4. *If using henna and cassia together, combine cassia and henna powders before adding liquid.
  5. **If using indigo, wait until the henna paste has dye-released, then mix indigo powder with room temperature distilled water until the paste is a similar consistency as the cassia/henna paste, and combine thoroughly. Indigo should not be mixed until you're ready to apply your paste.
Do NOT add oils, conditioners, or any additional ingredients to any part of the paste, as these will affect the results.

Preparing your hair:

Shampoo hair immediately before applying your paste. Skip conditioner and oil-based products. For best results, use a clarifying shampoo and/or Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash Mineral Treatment, especially if you have hard water.


Hair can be either damp or dry when applying your paste.

  1. Divide hair into four sections, parting from forehead to neck and from ear to ear.
  2. Use gloves. Henna will stain the skin. Apply the paste thickly to hair in ¼ inch sections at a time until all hair is covered.
  3. Massage the paste into each section to ensure complete saturation.
  4. Cover hair with plastic wrap. Wrap your head with a scarf or put on a warm knit cap, if desired.
  5. Leave the paste on hair for 3-4 hours or more. Keep paste moist and warm for best results.


Soak hair in warm water to dissolve the paste. Apply conditioner liberally to loosen remaining residue, then rinse and shampoo. Repeat as necessary until water runs clear or almost clear. Condition, dry, and style as normal.


It is fine to shampoo, condition, and style hair as normal immediately after coloring. The color will oxidize over the following week. Wait at least three days before deciding if you need to do touch-ups. If your hair feels crunchy or dry, this is normal and will subside in a few days. Conditioner, apple cider vinegar, and/or cold water will help smooth the cuticle. Excessive heat may cause the color to darken.


Plant powders can be kept air-tight, dry, and out of direct light for several years.Henna, cassia, and acid powder pastes can be frozen for up to 6 months. ***DO NOT freeze indigo powder or paste.***

Sample Test:

Conduct a sample test on hair harvested from your brush or on an inconspicuous area of the head before doing a full-head treatment. If the result is not what you expected, email [email protected] and send our henna specialist a photo of your results and a photo of what you are looking for.

Patch Test:

To test for sensitivities, mix a small amount of henna and acidic liquid – or henna, fruit acid powder, and distilled water – into a paste following roughly the same proportions as your intended mix. Allow the paste to dye-release.

  1. Apply the paste to inner forearm, cover with gauze or a bandage, and leave it on for the day, or overnight.
  2. Rinse away the paste and watch for a reaction during the following 24-48 hours.
Mixes containing henna may stain skin orange. This is normal, and not an allergic reaction. Allergies to henna are extremely rare but can happen. Itching can be caused by sensitivities to a certain type of fruit acid. Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair DOES NOT contain PPD, metallic salts, or other chemical adulterants. If you experience a reaction, contact Customer Service. Contact a doctor if you have further concerns.

Quick Henna Mixes:

Medium Brunette: Equal parts henna and indigo
Dark Brunette: 1 part henna; 2 parts indigo
Warm Black: 1 part henna, 3 parts indigo
Black: 1st application henna, shampoo, 2nd application indigo
Results will vary depending on initial hair color and choice of acidic liquid or fruit acid powder. Please contact Customer Service if you are unsure of what mix to use.
Customer Service Contact Information:
Email: [email protected]
Phone: 855-MEHANDI (855-634 2634) or 1 330-673-0600 (9 am - 5 pm EST every M,W,TH,F)
Catch us on chat!

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